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  • Fabric drain holes

    What have folks done for drain holes in fabric? I haven't found a thread on this yet. Specifically:

    1) just one at the bottom of the rudder? I don't actually remember seeing drain holes on rudders before
    2) on both sides of aileron/flap ribs or just on the downhill side?

    Any other relevant comments are welcome.

  • #2
    Where the aluminum aileron and flap trailing edge aluminum folds over, I used a soldering iron to burn an opening on each side. Very inconspicuous. Got that idea after looking at Bob Barrow's 4 Place.

    I embedded plastic scuppers in the fabric at the bottom of the rudder. I think I got those from Stewarts Systems when I ordered the fabric from them.
    Last edited by robcaldwell; 11-11-2020, 08:39 PM.
    Rob Caldwell
    Lake Norman Airpark (14A), North Carolina
    EAA Chapter 309
    Model B Quick Build Kit Serial # 11B-24B / 25B
    YouTube Channel: http://bearhawklife.video
    1st Flight May 18, 2021

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    • #3
      Ya, soldering iron to burn a hole and then AN231-4's glued on with a type of superglue that is oratex compatible. One each on each of the control surfaces on the inboard side because of dihedral. The bottom of my fuselage has an inspection panel just in front of the tailwheel spring and I figured that was enough. Haven't seen water back there yet.

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      • #4
        Also using those 1/4" holes to support the aileron and flap while I paint them using a 1/4" rod.



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        Rob Caldwell
        Lake Norman Airpark (14A), North Carolina
        EAA Chapter 309
        Model B Quick Build Kit Serial # 11B-24B / 25B
        YouTube Channel: http://bearhawklife.video
        1st Flight May 18, 2021

        Comment


        • #5
          Drain hole(s) in the fuselage - everyone after building should pour some water in their fuselage belly. On my 4 place I made drain holes back at the tail. Only the water pooled way forward of the tail. I noticed at Oshkosh one year after it had been raining. Belly fabric sagging with water. Good to allow it to drain. But each airplane will have a different low spot. Mark

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          • jaredyates
            jaredyates commented
            Editing a comment
            I followed this advice from Mark early on, and have also made new holes with each tire size change, since that changes the low spot.

          • svyolo
            svyolo commented
            Editing a comment
            Interesting tidbit of info, since the stringers are curved on the bottom.

        • #6
          Thanks for the inputs. What have folks done for drain holes on the rudder? Seems like it could increase water intrusion unless a seaplane grommet was used and pointed down.

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          • #7
            I poked holes with a soldering iron. I think it was the Stewart’s manual I picked that up from. I chose places that made sense and poked where there was a double layer of fabric; usually through tapes. I can’t remember if it was done after primer or after final paint.

            The manual didn’t say anything about poking holes in the rudder so I didn’t.
            Scratch Built 4-place Bearhawk. Continental IO-360, 88" C203 McCauley prop.

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            • #8
              My mentor tells me that a drain hole is required in every bay at the low point - basically anywhere moisture could get trapped. I made a hole with a soldering iron, glued a small AL washer on top and covered with a dollar patch - then burnt through again with a soldering iron

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              • #9
                On my first rudder, I poked two small holes at the very bottom - in the underneath, not at the sides - just above where the steering horns attach to the main tube.
                On my second rudder, I didn't bother and I haven't missed them yet. The fabric doesn't seal up tight enough to hold water in at that point.

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