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  • Tool advice requested



    I have pretty much completed my wings and am well into the fuselage. Tools required for the sheet metal were as expected. Now however, I find myself building lots of little brackets, clips, flanges, and mounts. I foresee a great deal more of this work ahead. I have a 4.5” grinder, wood bandsaw and a very small bench sander with a wheel and a 1” belt. The sander is pretty wimpy, but I can do the outside cutting and shaping with these.

    For the inside shaping, I’ve been using step drills, files, and a dremel with little sanding wheels. It sucks! What do you folks recommend? Better dremel bits? If so, what kind works for aluminum? Or should I step up to a die grinder? In that is the case, knowing that the bits are critical, what should I get? Thanks.

  • #2
    I used a die grinder with rotary rasp bits. There may be something better but that's what I found for the inside stuff. If you look at harbor freight's website, search for die grinder accessories, it was the only thing that came up for me. Sorry I don't know how to link it in to here.


    They are very coarse bits and you will have to do some clean up with a file or dremel or whatever you like.
    Rollie VanDorn
    Findlay, OH
    Patrol Quick Build

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    • #3
      Dremel also sells carbide cutters that last a very long time if you don't bend the shaft. The little Dremel drum sanders are handy, but just don't last. The carbine cutters work on AL and steel.

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      • #4
        I initially resisted it, but I find I use my HF oscillating spindle sander all the time for various projects. I've mostly done wood, but I could see it helping with aluminum if backed (or sandwiched) with sacrificial wood piece(s). Like all of the spinny things, watch those fingers!!!

        4-Place Model 'B' Serial 1529B (with many years to go...)

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        • #5
          This is a very good topic to discuss!!!! shaping and clean-up ....Abrasive's on the inside of stuff.

          When I sand aluminum I have problems with the abrasive getting clogged unless it's done by hand. Rollies rasp idea wont do that though. I usually hand sand after I rasp.

          I have a Adele Hand Nibbler. I feel like I have to fight with it every time I use it. I'll take three nibbles, then something stops me from taking the fourth....never ever got a rhythm going. If I could it would be a sweet tool.
          Brooks Cone
          Southeast Michigan
          Patrol #303, Kit build

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          • #6
            I will look for rotary rasps. That does sound good. Every grinding tool,I’ve tried clogs with aluminum, except sandpaper, which wears very fast on the dremel. So I will look for carbide cutters. Thanks all.

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            • huntaero
              huntaero commented
              Editing a comment
              using Do-all will help keep the cutters from galling up its a cutting lube looks like wax there are other brand names do a google search comes in a tube

          • #7
            I use a dewalt battery powered grinder with a cutoff disk for cutting just about everything. Works particularly well for cutting sheet aluminium. Especially long runs, and I then use a file and sandpaper to clean up. Great for the cowls, doors, boot cowls etc.

            Another tool that's handy if you're using Adel clamps is the Installation Pliers.

            For my Dremel I use a tungsten carbide steel rotary burr.

            You can mostly build a Bearhawk with these 3 tools
            Last edited by Nev; 10-15-2021, 06:16 AM.
            Nev Bailey
            Christchurch, NZ

            BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
            YouTube - Build and flying channel
            Builders Log - We build planes

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            • Bcone1381
              Bcone1381 commented
              Editing a comment
              I used to still fight with Adel clamps using the install pliers….then A tip was given to use single wrap of .020 safety wire around the clamp. Now I install the clamp using the tool, wrap the clamp once with the wire to hold it, then used both hands to install the screw/nut.

          • #8
            There are carbide burs for die grinders specifically designed for aluminum - single cut and very effective.

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            • #9
              Roundup of advice: I ordered a 1/4” air driven die grinder. Reviews were good and it literally cost half the price of the carbide burr which goes in it. Under 10 bucks Canadian. About 2 coffees’ worth at Starbucks. Strange world. Speaking of burrs, I didn’t know about single cut burrs until I my order was shipped. I went with double cut carbide burrs and some 3” cutoff wheels. I also bought a set of carbide burrs for the dremel. I ordered the Adel clamp plier. Didn’t see that one coming, but I can see it will save an immense amount of hassle. Thanks Nev. I’m feeling much more confident about efficiently and neatly completing the work ahead. I sure appreciate this forum and the people who’ve helped me through it. You guys are great!

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              • #10
                The burs specifically designed for aluminum have a more open and aggressive grind to prevent plugging up.

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                • #11
                  Two angles grinders, a miniature Bosch angle grinder, a Dremel, three drills, a battery powered file, lots of bits and discs of any kind. These I use most. Personally I realized I like using hand tools over stationary ones. One reason is that keeping the tools separate between aluminum and steel is a requirement. This is easy with hand tools but cumbersome with stationary tools.
                  Bearhawk "XHawk" Patrol, O-360, Trailblazer 80", tubeless 26" Goodyears, Stewart Systems. See XHawk Build Log.

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