Engine Preheat Systems

[Battson]

I will be installing a preheat system on my IO-540. Looks like the choices are limited, either Tanis or Reiff. The Reiff is somewhat cheaper. The main difference between the two is the Reiff uses a band around the base of the cylinder, while the Tanis uses a threaded plug that replaces a rocker cover bolt. The heating philosophy is different, Tanis says can remain plugged in continuously up to 100 deg ambient, Reiff says only use before flying. Would like to hear from builders with experience with either system.

I didn't use either of those.
I used a sump heater pad. As far as plug-in electric heaters go, I loved it and would definitely do it again if that was my requirement - but for anyone going backcountry overnight, electric heaters are clearly of little use, so I haven't continued with it.

To my simple way of thinking, heating the oil sounds much better than either the Tanis or Reiff based on very little reading - why heat the cylinders when it's the oil and block which soak up all the heat? If the oil is piping hot then the cylinders are more than warm enough, from my experience with the system.

[whee]

A quote that makes the point better than I was able to:

“How significant is this problem. Well, take the TCM IO-520-series engines used in manyBeech and Cessna singles and twins, for example. The IO-520 overhaul manual lists theminimum crankshaft bearing clearance as 0.0018 inch (that’s 1.8 thousandths) at normalroom temperature.

What happens to that clearance when you start cooling the engine down? TCM doesn’t say.But tests performed in 1984 by Tanis Aircraft Servicesin Glenwood, Minn. (where it gets mighty cold) indicated that an IO-520 loses 0.002 inch(2.0 thousandths) of crankshaft bearing clearance at -20F. An engine built to TCM’sminimum specified bearing fit at room temperature would actually have negative bearingclearance at -20F-in other words, the crankshaft would be seized tight!

You’ve probably noticed how difficult it is to pull the prop through by hand beforestarting in cold weather. Now you know why. It’s not that the oil is thick (because if youuse multivis oil, it’s not). It’s that the clearance between the crankshaft and bearingsis tighter than normal. If it’s cold enough, you might not be able to pull the propthrough at all.”

https://www.avweb.com/ownership/the-whys-and-hows-of-preheating/

[Battson]

For my engine, when the oil sump preheater was on, the oil was around 60*C (140F) after an hour's heating. The engine itself (CHTs) were sitting around 20*C (70F) from memory, which is plenty hot for all parts, it swung like a hot start, very easy starting.

[jaredyates]

Similar results here.

[whee]

Hmm. A XP Reiff system doesn’t even provide that kind of preheat performance. Perhaps the starting point is the difference.

If I was dealing with freezing and above temps then an oil only heater would be great. Turn it on for an hour then good to go. But we see freezing temps when camping mid summer and sub-zero during the winter. It was -11F this morning and 5F when I got to the airport.

[BravoGolf]

This is the Anti-Splat oil heater. The length including the cord is 30”

[Utah-Jay]

I saw an Anti-Splat unit yesterday, looked very nice and well built

[m.mooney]

but for anyone going backcountry overnight, electric heaters are clearly of little use, so I haven't continued with it.

I’ll disagree with this. I use a small propane generator for those scenarios. Yes, 17 pounds extra weight but the Reiff is a sump and cylinder heater for a more thorough and faster preheat. I prefer this to the open flame that I previously used for off grid preheating.

[rodsmith]

Glad I started this thread, I've learned a lot and probably going a different direction. I am now thinking of going with an insulated engine cover and a twin hornet heater that will just stay plugged in during the winter months. Not sure if it is adequate if I was traveling and parked outside during serious cold, but that would be a rare occurance. Eventually I will put heat in my hangar, when I poured the slab I installed tubing for in floor heat. I'm probably going to have an external wood fired boiler for the heat supply instead of paying for natural gas.. No big deal as we heat our house with wood, just a couple more trips for firewood in the summer.

[kestrel]

It’s a Baja 700/900. Weighs around 17lbs.

I looked that up and the Baja appears to not be available anymore? I also found one from Ryobi that sure looks like the same generator in different colors. It appears to be not available yet? ...maybe I'm looking in the wrong places. All the alternatives seem to be a good deal heavier. The 1000W Honda lists at nearly 30 lbs.

[m.mooney]

I believe the Ryobi is the same basic thing. The Baja was less than $300 and is small and light. As a bonus, it’s made in China so I’m sure it will run forever….ha ha. It has been working fine for 3 plus years, hopefully it will keep on trucking. I do think my Honda 2000 will run forever but I feel like the Baja has already outperformed my longevity expectations.

[Dave Roberts]

I’ve had the stick on sump heater since the BH first flight. The key is a good engine cover. If it’s really cold I have an oil heater(as in an entry way or garage) that I built a shroud for and position under the cowl. I don’t normally fly much when it is cold. If i do the engine cover goes on immediately after shut down. Three hours at zero the engine will still be warm to the touch. There are a lot of ways to warm up an engine that work very well, but I think the key is a good insulated engine cover.

[Luke68]

I just installed the tanis system on my o-540 because I have multiple friends that use it and all love it, a few of them leave it plugged in all winter and haven’t had any issues but they also fly fairly often.
Tanis recommends replacing the intake tube bolt with the heating element probe since it’s deep enough to engage the threads on the entire length of the probe.

[rmac]

My two cents on Reiff: I purchased the Reiff system for my Continental IO-550. The oil pan heater is fine, as far as it goes, but the cylinder bands would not fit on my engine because of a ridge around the base of the cylinder. Check your cylinders before ordering Reiff.
So, I'm living with the oil pan heater. It's plugged into a Switcheon unit so I can turn it on via cellphone a few hours before I plan to fly. (The Switcheon is a nice unit -- dead simple to use, unlike its predecessor.)

-Rick

[Nev]

Any updates from those using the Antisplat oil heater ?

[Utah-Jay]

Any updates from those using the Antisplat oil heater ?

Nev

I’ve not used mine yet, but one of my buddies loves his. 45 minutes and both the oil and CHT’s are near takeoff temperatures

[arborite]

IMG_1400.jpg IMG_1401.jpg Living in cold-ish country, I have tried several different types of pre heat. The Bonanza has the Reiff oil pan heater and is plugged in 8-24 hours before flight and works well. my favorite solution, though is for the cub. inside the pictured trolley is an electric heater of the oil filled type. I’m comfortable leaving this unattended 24/7 as its heating elements are all confined internally. a small computer fan pushes air up through the box to the engine compartment. with the blanket installed, the entire engine compartment stays well above 50 even on the coldest of winter days here. typical temp is over 70. and to others’ point, the temp is stable and above dew point , which is the key to fighting condensation. IMG_1402.jpg

[Nev]

Very innovative!

[alaskabearhawk]

This is interesting as I have ordered the E-Z Heat Model 540 oil sump pads to use on my BH. I have a Switcheon 2-channel box and intend on getting a cockpit heater too.

[Nev]

I've ordered a similar remote GSM switch fromAliExpress to try out before going any further.
Will report back how it works in due, whether it is the low cost solution it appears to be, or not.

F08A69B3-56C2-4D2D-B6CC-E33140D238D2.jpg