DavzLSA progress

[Patrol28]

I haven't made anything for seat covering yet. The method Bob suggests in the seat build newsletter is lightest and best. After a friend used my shear to make .020 aluminum strips for his Legal Eagle ultralight I'm going to make similar type lattice work for at least the seat bottoms. I will treat myself to pro made cushions for the front seat but the rare pax will probably end up sitting on wal mart boat cushions. Thanks for sharing your project.

[Bcone1381]

I had to look it up....The Patrol Book the came with the plans shows Bob's method is to use 3.7oz Dacron Aircraft Fabric glued to the seat frame with PolyTak, wrapping the cloth 75% minimum.

[JimParker256]

For the seat bottoms, I am hesitant to use the Bob method, because I'm a pretty big guy. So I looked at the Tony Bingelis book, and adopted his "metal lattice" method for the bottom of my front seat – the one my big butt will sit on. For the rear seat bottom, I'm using a simpler aluminum sheet with "fingers" extending past the seat frame, wrapped around the frame and riveted to the seat bottom, similar to the lattice-method. I will probably cut some lightening holes in it after I'm done, but it's not too heavy as is. Really the weight is similar to the basket-weave front seat.

[davzLSA]

Hi Jim, That is what I was considering doing, with the aluminum but I was not going to use the lattice I was going to use the sheet aluminum and cut lightening hole like you said, but I talked to Btaz and he is using the fabric method and he was telling me that it was very stiff and did not give after it is shrunk. I was thinking I could try the fabric and see how it does and if it doesn't work out I can always remove the fabric and put the aluminum on. I was thinking the fabric may be lighter than the aluminum too.

[JimParker256]

If you're a "normal" sized guy, I'm sure the fabric will do just fine. I'm not exactly "normal sized" (unless you're comparing to a grizzly bear), and at my weight, I'm concerned about both crashworthiness and support / comfort over the long haul from such a setup. I'll post pictures of my seat bottoms, if Aircraft Spruce ever delivers the rivets I've got on order... I ran out (again) when I started riveting the rear seat pan into place.

[davzLSA]

I am looking forward to seeing you pictures Jim. Im about a 200 pounder, I think someone said the best way to improve the useful weight of your airplane was to go on a diet, I like that saying and I just might do that.

[stinger]

Different Strokes , LSA seats . Lil Bear Stinger

[JimParker256]

Stinger,
To the comments your upholstery guy made about your solid seat bottom... That's something I was initially concerned about as well. So I'm using multi-density foam, specifically designed for crashworthiness and comfort (in that order). It was originally developed for military helicopter seats, where spinal compression injuries were common. I spoke to their specialists, and they recommended the "stack" (layers of different density foam) for me to use for my weight.

But I understand that if you fly where it's really cold, this foam can be a bit hard until it is warmed up. If I lived up north, I'd probably add a seat heater and turn it on as part of the pre-flight. (That would also solve the problem of LiFePo batteries needing a current draw to warm themselves up in cold temps!)

[davzLSA]

That is a good looking seat Stinger. They look very sturdy and crash worthy.

[davzLSA]

Hi Guys, I got my front seat and rear seats finished except for the fabric I'm going to put on the seats. Now on the the aluminum parts.

[davzLSA]

Hi Guys, I have progress to report, I have accomplished a major psychological goal for myself, I have started attaching aluminum parts which means to me that the welding is almost done. I do have a question of anyone of you that has past this point in your build. I have drilled into my tubes to fasten some of the aluminum parts, does anyone think that would be harmful maybe because of the possibility of moister getting into the tubes? Anyway I'd like to hear from yall.

[BTAZ]

Dave

Not sure why you would have had to drill into the main tubing for the formers.

My opinion is it would be better not to and it wasn't required on my build.

[davzLSA]

Hey Brad, so you only drilled into the tabs? At this point the holes are only #40 so I can weld them back up easily.

[jaredyates]

Early on I drilled holes in the landing gear legs for an access panel at the bottom. When Bob saw that at Oshkosh, he said it was a bad idea, and suggested that I weld the holes closed. This meant recovering the landing gear legs.

[BTAZ]

Dave

I only drilled holes in the tabs(FYI, I actually drilled the tabs prior to welding them on so I could do it in my drill press.)

A couple of the tabs needed to be trimmed and re-drilled to fit the former but most could be used as is.

You will get tired of welding on tabs.

No real reason to screw the former to the fuselage tubing as the fabric holds it in place at the end.

I definitely wouldn't drill holes into something that is stressed( like the gear legs Jared referred to) and it is simpler to just make a rule not to than to try to analyze whether it is OK in one place but not another.

Only exception was I drilled directly into the door/window frames to hold on the plexiglass. I used RTV on the screws as I installed them both to isolate the screw from the plexi and also to seal the tubing.

[davzLSA]

Thanks Bard and Jared for the info, my questions about how to fasten the top and bottom of the fairings to the tubing has been answered, since the fabric does that. Ill weld those holes back up. That would have been a good piece of info to be on the plans since I have never built this type of airplane before.