Bearhawk Aircraft Bearhawk Tailwheels LLC Eric Newton's Builder Manuals Bearhawk Plans Bearhawk Store

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Kit #7 arrived

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • rkennell
    replied
    Looks good. I am glad I am not the only one to have to redo what a I have done.

    Leave a comment:


  • Utah-Jay
    replied

    Riveted the top cowl to the piano hinges and the cowl doors to the piano hinges. Down the middle is a line of rivets that is a “U” channel stiffener for the top cowl.

    I did screw up in a big way…. I had the top cowl all perfectly flush riveted to the piano hinges and then ding… ding… ding I realized I forgot to attach the “U” channel to the bottom of the piano hinge. So I had to drill out the rivets and redo the riveting. Stuff happens

    IMG_4247.jpgIMG_4248.jpgIMG_4246.jpgIMG_4249.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    Three weeks of work/travel allow for a lot of thinking time. So I mentally re-engineered my air-scoop for my carb airbox.

    It has now been primed and will be rivet assembled tomorrow.

    Here are the steps, just note the edges have been trimmed and sanded/rounded since these photos were taken this morning.
    IMG_4225.jpgIMG_4226.jpgIMG_4227.jpgIMG_4229.jpgIMG_4230.jpgIMG_4228.jpgIMG_4234.jpgIMG_4233.jpgIMG_4235.jpgIMG_4232.jpg
    The last photo shows what I used to make the two side panels, it is the leftover from the kit air scoop, so the 90 degree flanges were already there which will be riveted to the inside of the bottom engine cowl.

    The front bottom had to be rounded to match the cowl shape and I will make a fiberglass flange for that to be fitted to the proper shape and then put a strip of metal to sandwich the fiberglass for riveting.

    That was about 2 hours work. EZPZ
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    More fiberglass work on the “air scoop” to maximize airflow to the air box. It will make sense later, but this is the mold for the area above the bottom cowl
    IMG_4160.jpgIMG_4161.jpgIMG_4159.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    So what is this?
    IMG_4153.jpgIMG_4152.jpg

    It’s a redneck roller

    Yep, needed to roll my cowl doors and did not have access to the correct tool
    IMG_4155.jpgIMG_4154.jpg Doors are nicely rolled so it is easy to attach then to the crossbar.

    Did a bunch of sanding and filling and then more sanding before I layed up the fiberglass on the inside of my air box/air scoop cover
    IMG_4156.jpg

    Prepared my next mold for fiberglass, this thingy is another part of my air scoop
    IMG_4158.jpgIMG_4157.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • marcusofcotton
    commented on 's reply
    Yep, the old 90% completed and 90% left to go rule.

  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    The more I do it seems the more I have to do

    Leave a comment:


  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    Installed the weight tubes in the ailerons
    IMG_4129.jpg

    Yep it balances
    IMG_4130.jpg

    Finished the trimming and cutting as well as bending the attach area to match the curve of the bottom cowl
    IMG_4133.jpgIMG_4134.jpgIMG_4135.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • Bcone1381
    replied
    It looks like in a previous post you might have a Vetterman Cross Over exhaust....meaning there are two cross over exhaust tubes placed in front of the oil pan. I was wondering how this Carb heat Box would fit with those. Am I correct about your fit and your exhaust?

    Leave a comment:


  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    Been working on the Companion since I got home from work Monday.
    Mainly working on the bottom cowl and the carb airbox with a few other goodies thrown in.

    IMG_4115.jpg
    IMG_4116.jpg

    IMG_4124.jpgIMG_4125.jpgIMG_4126.jpg





    It was with much trepidation that I started cutting into the bottom cowl that took so long to get perfect, but it needed a big hole so it got a big hole. Obviously it is a start small and enlarge as needed. Started by tracing the carb for positioning, then took the cowl off set the airbox on it and then started tracing the outline once again starting a bit small allowing for cutting more to fit.

    I also filled the aileron counterbalance tubes with #9 shot, I got them to within 0.2 oz of one another, I think that is good enough. Mine came out a bit heavy, I think using larger shot would make for a lighter weight. 5 pounds 8.5 ounces was my weight. I countersunk the holes for the rivets and primed where the bare metal was exposed
    IMG_4114.jpg

    IMG_4128.jpgIMG_4127.jpg

    With the airbox on, I can now install the Carb Heat control cable, so I did that as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nev
    commented on 's reply
    Good work Jay !

  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    As often happens I mentally review the days work that night, and last night I decided to redo my cowl doors. Yes they were perfect, fitted really tight… But I just decided that the skin was just a bit short and would not have enough material below the skybolt fastener.

    So today I redid them both. And like most things, they turned out better the 2nd time.

    Win-Win
    IMG_4011.jpgIMG_4012.jpgIMG_4013.jpg
    And the fit of the nose bowl to the spinner is perfect
    IMG_4014.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    rrbeck11
    my carb air box arrives today, should get interesting

    Leave a comment:


  • rrbeck11
    replied
    Really nice work, Jay! Now I’m dying to see what you have planned for the underside of that cowl!

    Leave a comment:


  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    Ailerons made the trip home, and yes they do fit in the Mini
    IMG_4003.jpg

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X