Picked up the seats today. Now I can sit in and make airplane noises in comfort.
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I decided I wanted an easy way to lubricate the flap actuator tube in the wing so I silver soldered on these small steel cups which mate nicely with this rubber tipped lubrication fitting.
Flap Lubrication-SS.jpg
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I pulled the motor for the last few bits to add to the firewall. I never used Aeroquip style hose before, but learned quickly and glad I bought reusable fittings. I mounted the engine on a stand with a firewall mockup and instrument panel to slowly mock up how everything should work, and it almost all did. Maybe the only thing that didn't was 1 plumbing thing. (so far). Rigid or racing hose needs a bend to make installation, or removal, easy, or even possible. A 90 bend is best. If you don't plan on removing it, no worries. I knew this, but my low pressure fuel filter, on one end, was a straight fitting. That would have required removing a bunch of screws (hard) on the fuel pump cover, removing that line, and then being able to remove the line to the filter. So I ordered a speed flow 90 degree fitting, to screw into the fuel filter, so I can use an Aeroquip style fitting on the fillter, to make servicing the filter easier. i will post some pics tomorrow.
Reusable fittings for the fuel and oil cost more in the beginning, but saved me money. Probably several hundred dollars.
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Sounds like a great Beartracks article!
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I can do it, but there are a bunch of youtube videos on it. I will start a thread, and include links to the better youtube videos, and stuff I learned. I am super glad I bought re-useable fittings, as I doubt I didn't redo less than 70% of them. In particular, the bigger fittings for the oil lines are a lot bigger than I would have thought, and that changed the geometry of how they worked together.
I think the way I ended up doing the oil filter and Van's oil cooler mount (very similar to what Nev did) Is about as simple as you can do it, but the geometry of the fittings is still huge, and not what you might expect.
Starting out, I actually sort of "knew what I didn't know". I went with re-useable fittings because i knew I wouldn't get it right the first time. They are more expensive, but saved me money in the end. The cheapest, if you knew exactly what you were doing, would be crimped hydraulic hoses from a local shop.
But I will resurrect another thread, or start another one, and mostly include links. The videos are better than anything I could do.
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This weekend I mounted two cabin heat cables and made brackets in the cockpit, and fitted them. Also two cables for an unbuilt cowl flap, and alternate air inlet which is built, but not installed. Almost finished up power "big wire" power supply wiring. I was short 1 connector. Hopefully first "Master on" tomorrow. I have had the engine on and off a couple of times the last 2 weeks, never took the engine off the hoist. I wanted to make sure all the big stuff played together well. Almost all of it did.
Hopefully no "smoke check" tomorrow.
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No smoke, only a couple of minor errors. Avionics master switch is mounted upside down.
I used a commercially available switch/relay panel meant to be the electrical system for a vehicle. Two separate buses, all wired up according to the aeroelectric connection, 1 alt, 2 batteries. Minimal switches, just enough to check backups (ignition, fuel pumps, and 2 voltage regulators). Pitot heat and strobe lights in the wing root, LED position lights come on with the avionics master.
The relay panel weighs about the same as a VPX. Very ruggedly made, IP67 or 68, I can't remember. There is a sealed cover that goes over the relays/fuses. It massively reduces the number of terminals per circuit.
The relays are all dual pole. In normal flight, none of the relays will be energized. Only the master relay is energized once everything is up and running.
So far so good.Attached Files
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Originally posted by Bdombrowski2@gmail.com View PostHello guys, I'm new here so forgive me if I'm positing incorrectly, I just received my quick build Model B, and I'm wondering if anyone else is experiencing issues, with the fit of there trim torque tube.
Byron D.N678C
https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blprojec...=7pfctcIVW&add
Revo Sunglasses Ambassador
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQ0...tBJLdV8HB_jSIA
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Originally posted by marcusofcotton View PostSpec/source for relay panel?Attached Files
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Spent the day making access port frames up for the left wing. So far so good with the exception that I got ahead of myself and riveted all the nutplates on before match drilling to the wing skin. Anyway, that'll resolve itself somehow.
Having finished the right wing now, I had spent hours and hours research how to do each part, the instructions were only a small help and in some areas incorrect. The result is that the left wing is progressing much faster. The aileron balance cable is already installed, tank cover nutplates drilled and countersunk, wing-end nutplates drilled and dimpled, bellcrank installed etc.
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image_10242.jpgNev Bailey
Christchurch, NZ
BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
YouTube - Build and flying channel
Builders Log - We build planes
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89F112BE-C22E-4B91-BB78-991527B261CB.jpeg
had a couple pieces I drew up in cad laser cut as a test. Pretty cheap and easy.
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Originally posted by geraldmorrissey View PostCurious about the trim horns, I cannot see anything on the dwg that calls out a 5/8" through hole at the center of the horn for the T-9 tube. I'm in the process of building these right now. Hole or no hole?
Thx
Gerry
Patrol #30
I may be misinterpreting this though so hopefully another builder can chime in!
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