John Bickham Regarding the oil leak from my Prop Governor, there was a bulletin about it from 2016. I had it serviced in July, and knowing what I know now I think that problem has been fixed. However the oil leak from the cylinder flange fitted neatly time-wise with the governor leak, so I attributed it to the governor not being repaired properly and didn't search further at that time.
We didn't find any evidence of paint or contamination between the cylinder flange and the crankcase. That area appears to be clean. Because of this we don't plan to remove other cylinders unnecessarily.
We did find very visible evidence on the outside face of the cylinder flange, and under the hold-down plates. It appears that this is probably the cause of the problem. Fortunately, thats easier to access and doesn't require the removal of the cylinder in order to check it. It does require the baffles to be removed, and the cylinder nuts to be removed so that the hold-down plate can be removed. So while it's still a PITA, it's a much preferable alternative to not checking it until the studs shear off. Not only does that make your day overly exciting, it can actually ruin your whole afternoon.
Regarding the through bolts (studs) - (and noting that I'm not an aircraft engineer) - they do go through the case, and hold opposing cylinders onto the case. So some of the cylinder studs are shorter and seat into the crankcase, and the through-studs are longer and screw in from one side. Once seated, each end is threaded and holds opposite cylinders in place. My understanding is that there is a concern because it may also affect the crankcase integrity. On mine, the side of the through bolt that sheared off was also the side that is threaded into the crankcase, so theoretically it shouldn't have affected the opposite side, but I'm well aware that I might be taking an optimistic view here too. We are currently in the process of ordering new studs for the whole #4 cylinder. We will also be removing and cleaning all of the other cylinder flanges.
We didn't find any evidence of paint or contamination between the cylinder flange and the crankcase. That area appears to be clean. Because of this we don't plan to remove other cylinders unnecessarily.
We did find very visible evidence on the outside face of the cylinder flange, and under the hold-down plates. It appears that this is probably the cause of the problem. Fortunately, thats easier to access and doesn't require the removal of the cylinder in order to check it. It does require the baffles to be removed, and the cylinder nuts to be removed so that the hold-down plate can be removed. So while it's still a PITA, it's a much preferable alternative to not checking it until the studs shear off. Not only does that make your day overly exciting, it can actually ruin your whole afternoon.
Regarding the through bolts (studs) - (and noting that I'm not an aircraft engineer) - they do go through the case, and hold opposing cylinders onto the case. So some of the cylinder studs are shorter and seat into the crankcase, and the through-studs are longer and screw in from one side. Once seated, each end is threaded and holds opposite cylinders in place. My understanding is that there is a concern because it may also affect the crankcase integrity. On mine, the side of the through bolt that sheared off was also the side that is threaded into the crankcase, so theoretically it shouldn't have affected the opposite side, but I'm well aware that I might be taking an optimistic view here too. We are currently in the process of ordering new studs for the whole #4 cylinder. We will also be removing and cleaning all of the other cylinder flanges.
Comment