I notice that many Bearhawks have the Cessna style wing root cabin vents as Bob recommends. I am having trouble finding the parts for them. Are there parts available that I am not finding or are they being made from scratch? Seeking ideas/methods...
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Where can we find the plastic kits? Google is turning up plastic tubes for the inside part but not the whole kit that includes the part to attach inside the wing leading edge.
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I've been really happy with the plastic Vans NACA vents at $5 each mounted to the boot cowl, plus some eyeball vents on the panel. The eyeball vents are a little expensive, but work well and seal tight. The two are connected with 2" SCAT duct.
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I've always wondered about those. Any problems with water intrusion when flying in weather? Or do they effectively only allow the air in and keep the water out?
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I wouldn't know, I don't fly in that kind of weatherThere is a pretty good mass-separation element to it, being that the water would pass by the side of the plane and the air would turn the corner.
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I made these adapters myself from fiberglass.
I made the mould for them from a toilet-paper tube taped onto cardboard, shaped to match the wing form (held in place with another bit of card). It was a 60 minute job. Much better than $150 for the OEM ones.
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Other options are the window vents. I went with these on a certified Piper I've restored....fuselage is done...waiting on wing parts. Javron Cub sells non-certified that are identical to PMA'd from Univair.
Can get a close up picture if interested.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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The window vents don't always work so well. My BH's sister ship here in has them, and they are unusable. Perhaps in a slower aircraft, or one with smaller windows?? I can't say why. I have been assured they were a bad idea in his case, and he wished he didn't install them. Certainly when we flew together, it was a hot ride. He said he wished he went with the vent tubes in the wing root.
I am talking about this kind:
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/attachmen...9&d=1199218692
IIRC, the air pressure broke them when full open at cruise speed, or pressed them shut. I don't know which.Last edited by Battson; 05-13-2016, 03:25 AM.
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On the circular window vents - I read somewhere that they are limited to opening only below 120 mph... Unlike SuperCubs, this could definitely be a problem in any of the Bearhawk models!
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Yeah, they use these window louvre things like the picture above on the old Seahawk helicopters, but they eventually develop small cracks, and then get ripped out in the cruise ~140kts. Makes a really startling noise the first time you hear it, and you wonder if something important just fell off your frame.Last edited by James; 11-26-2020, 04:30 AM.
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I have the wing vents which the guys discuss above. The hyperlinked venttube ones - they are very effective. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...es/ventube.php
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There is a pretty good mass-separation element to it, being that the water would pass by the side of the plane and the air would turn the corner.Nev Bailey
Christchurch, NZ
BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
YouTube - Build and flying channel
Builders Log - We build planes
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Just finished installing the NACA vents from VAN's in my boot cowl. I think boot cowl vents provide better overall cooling than the Cessna style which blast you in the face.
NACA Inlet.jpgAttached Files
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Just finished installing the NACA vents from VAN's in my boot cowl.
I see you’ve drilled and countersunk holes. Are these for screws or rivets ? I’m wondering how well rivets will hold in plastic. My initial plan was to use #6 screws into nutplates, bonded to the plastic. But the screws also require quite a large countersunk hole for .025 aluminium.
Thoughts ?Nev Bailey
Christchurch, NZ
BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
YouTube - Build and flying channel
Builders Log - We build planes
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