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Shock Strut Boots
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Shock Strut Boots
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This gallery has 1 photos.Last edited by alaskabearhawk; 08-02-2019, 07:00 PM.Tags: None
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I used cheap shifter boots while i looked for something better. The narrow end is positioned and sealed with a zip tie against a small plastic bushing on the threaded shaft of the rod end. It drapes over the upper end of the strut and flares out through the movement hole and is kept in place with an outer flange screwed to the boot cowl. It doesn’t move with the shock but closes out the area sufficiently to prevent fumes etc.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
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Mark Goldberg's reply from earlier today that I inadvertently deleted (long story, sorry Mark)
You could also use the fiberglass fairing that Bob makes. When on the ground it can pull away from the boot cowl sheet metal a little. But in the air it tucks up tight and helps reduce drag from the round tube top of the shock struts. Mark
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That's something completely new to me. I just visited his web site and saw the fairings for the Patrol, but didn't see anything for the 4-place. Not really sure how that would work with the movement of the struts though, being solid.
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When the struts are unloaded, the fairing seals against the belly. On the ground, as the struts extend, there is a gap between the belly and the upper flange of the fairing.
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This is what I did, in the end.
I started out with boots, however I found it was a terrible annoyance and took far too long at annual maintenance time. The metal parts that held them in place also scratched the paint on the shock struts.
This design allows me to just slip the whole belly panel off in one go. Ideally I would cut it into two pieces so I can remove half at a time, for ease of access. Removing the whole thing at once is a fiddly job. I would always stick with this design of boot.
When in flight, the gear retract inwards and it all seals up nicely.
Sorry about the poor photo, I just snapped it on the way past. This engine now leaks a little oil, after it's visit to the shop, whereas new from Bob it didn't lose a drop.
IMG_20190820_103113.jpgAttached Files
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Originally posted by jaredyates View PostMark Goldberg's reply from earlier today that I inadvertently deleted (long story, sorry Mark)
You could also use the fiberglass fairing that Bob makes. When on the ground it can pull away from the boot cowl sheet metal a little. But in the air it tucks up tight and helps reduce drag from the round tube top of the shock struts. Mark
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Yes, unfortunately I will be re-doing this area where the gear struts penetrate the belly. I just cannot seem to get this sealed up, despite the inordinate amount of time I've spent down there. CO is real problem for me. I suggest everyone consider a CO detector for this reason.Rob Caldwell
Lake Norman Airpark (14A), North Carolina
EAA Chapter 309
Model B Quick Build Kit Serial # 11B-24B / 25B
YouTube Channel: http://bearhawklife.video
1st Flight May 18, 2021
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Below is a link to an interesting story of this problem in the C-180 prototype and how they found the source of CO2...start reading about 1/2 through the article "Our silence spoke volumes" in bold font.
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Here is the CO monitor I use. https://thinairenergystore.com/geiger-co/
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Rob Taylor had been dealing with this issue for just over four years. He finally came up with a solution he said that works. Two strut boots, NAPA part number SA1997 and two neoprene washers. One hour flight and no detectable CO in the cabin. YMMV
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I saw the comment about shock strut fairings for the Patrol and called Bob about them. He said they don't fit the 4-place, apparently the angle between the struts and the fuselage is different. He briefly explained how to make them, doesn't sound too difficult.
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I have a set of what Bob sells, made of carbon fiber. Weigh 9.3oz for the pair.
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Originally posted by alaskabearhawk View PostI have a set of what Bob sells, made of carbon fiber. Weigh 9.3oz for the pair.
Are these for sale?
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They install streamlined. The open edge is oriented to the rear of the aircraft and held in place with clamping pressure around the strut. Like Mark G said, the top flange is at an angle to the belly when on the ground and looks a bit funny, but while in the the air the gear angle changes and the flange is then flush with the belly.
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After going through several designs, I finally finished up the seal around the gear struts. There seem to be a lot of good design variations out there. I am hopeful that this will hold up to the exhaust fumes and potential oil exposure. If I had to do it all again, the one change I'd make would be to have the aluminum come a bit closer to the strut, so there is less rubber exposed.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
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